You should get your puppy accustomed to being groomed from a
very early age. Make it a fun thing at first, a bit of a game, and only
for a short period of time. Gradually build up the amount of time you
spend grooming your puppy until it is quite happy to stand for you to
brush it. Eventually the puppy will enjoy being groomed and may even get
quite excited when you produce its brush and comb from the cupboard. If
you approach grooming as a chore then so will your dog. It may even put
up a bit of resistance resulting in grooming becoming a task you put
off.
When, as a puppy, your dog is used to being handled it makes
it easier for the veterinary surgeon to carry out an examination. Your
dog will know what to expect and there will be no nasty surprises. It
also makes any visits to the surgery less stressful for both you and
your dog. When you are grooming your dog it is also an ideal time to
check it over for any lumps and bumps. You can also check the skin, by
parting the hair, to see if your dog has any ticks, fleas or any red,
sore or inflamed areas that may require treatment. Also remember to
check the dog's eyes, ears, mouth, nose, feet and nails.
A dog's coat can be one of five types; long, non-shedding,
silky, wiry or smooth. There are also a few that don't fit into any of
the above, these are the hairless breeds and the breeds which have coats
that are twisted into cords.
Long coats need a lot of attention, grooming on a daily
basis. Dogs with this type of coat are German Shepherds, Old English
Sheepdogs, Newfoundlands and Golden Retrievers.
Non-shedding coats means just that, dogs with these types of
coats do not moult. They do however need to be clipped on a regular
basis, as much as every two months. These types of dogs also need to
have their ears plucked, that is any excess hair removed. If they are
groomed professionally this will be done for you. Some examples of
non-shedding dogs are Poodles, Bichons Frises and Bedlington Terriers.
Silky coats need a lot of care. The dead hair has to be
removed or the dog will become very matted and uncomfortable. Some
trimming is also required especially spaniels ears and feet. Other
examples of silky haired dogs are Afghans, Yorkshire Terriers, Spaniels,
Setters and Pekes.
Dogs with wiry coats, like the Wire haired Dachshund, the
Schnauzers and most of the terrier breeds, need to be hand stripped,
usually twice a year, or clipped regularly. Professional help will be
needed for both these methods. Many breeders, of these dogs, will
happily give advice on hand stripping your dog. It can be very time
consuming, as much as five hours, so your dog will really have to be
trained from an early age. On a regular basis these dogs should have
their coats combed to prevent matting.
Before you actually start using a brush or comb on your dog,
use your hands, this loosens the dead hairs, by going through the coat
in the opposite way to the hair growth. Just like a massage. The dog
with positively love this and it will stimulate the natural oils in the
skin that help to give a nice, healthy shine to the coat. After doing
this then you can use the grooming equipment best suited for your dogs'
coat type. If the coat is matted you may need to use scissors. Always
make sure to keep the point of the scissors away from the dog. If the
dog jumps you will not stab the scissors into the dog.
Some amount of trimming may be necessary, this will depend on
the type of coat. There are dogs which have hair growing over their
eyes. This need to be attended to so the dog can see. You could tie the
hair up in a topknot, do not use a rubber band, or you could trim the
hair away. Dogs that have a lot of hair around the muzzle may get matted
with food. These breeds should have their muzzles combed daily. Check
the lip folds, small pockets of skin along the lip, for food debris.
These folds can become infected if left with decaying food in them. Not
all dogs have these lip folds, the spaniel is one breed that seems to
have problems in this area. You must also check your dogs feet. The hair
between the toes and pads can become matted and collect all sorts of
debris, for example, small stones, chewing gum and twigs. Obviously
these must be removed as your dog will be very uncomfortable and
reluctant to go for daily walks.
A dog should be groomed before you bath it. Grooming first
removes any unwanted hair and matts which stop the shampoo from getting
through the coat. Also if you wet hair with knots it only gets worse and
can be quite sore for the dog. Knotted hair twists and becomes more
knotted, pinching the skin as it does so.
Bathing should not be done too often as this removes the
natural oils from the skin. If you use shampoos not suitable for dogs
then you may damage the coat and skin. The oils that are in the coat are
there for a reason, to help in waterproofing and insulation. If you
take your dog to a groomer it will be bathed there anyway, so there will
be no need for you to bath the dog at home. It might be worth checking
on the shampoo that they use, or even taking your own along.
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If you are bathing your dog in your own bath make sure you
put a non-slip mat on the bottom. Not only does this stop your dog from
slipping and sliding, it also protects your bath from being scratched.
If your dog is wearing a leather collar remove it before bathing,
replace it with a nylon type one if you can. Remember to use shampoo
that is suitable for your dog's skin. Do not use household soaps and
cleaning liquids, use a special dog shampoo. These dog shampoos also
lather less and make it easier to rinse from the coat. This is a godsend
if your dog doesn't like standing in the bath for too long.
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The water for bathing your dog in should be lukewarm. Make
sure you wet the coat thoroughly before adding the shampoo. Some dogs
are quite hard to soak because of the type of hair they have. When
wetting the coat you can help to steady the dog by gently putting your
hand under the chin. Talk to the dog to reassure it, it helps to keep
everyone calm. Start shampooing at the top and work down. Firstly along
the back and neck area then the tail and bottom next the legs and feet.
Lastly wash the head area, most dog shampoos don't cause much irritation
if they get into the eyes, but do try to avoid doing this if possible.
The dog may want to shake itself while it is being bathed, if
you notice that this is about to happen then place your hand on the
back of its neck, the scruff, if necessary gently lift the scruff. This
action should be enough to stop the shake from occurring. Once you are
sure that you have washed the dog all over then it is time to rinse.
Again top to bottom. Start with the head, tilt it up slightly, and work
backwards. Repeat the rinsing process until you are sure that all the
shampoo has been washed from the coat. Using your hands to gently
squeeze the coat to get rid of the excess water. If you do not do this
the dog will come out of the bath and shake, soaking everything in its
path. When doing this pay particular attention to the parts that have
more hair, ears, legs and tail. The next step is to dry the dog. Some
dogs will tolerate a hairdryer, others will have to be towel dried.
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If you decide to try using a hair dryer then let the dog
see what you are doing, switch it on and let it become accustomed to the
noise before you try to dry the dog. Remember the hairdryer should be
set at a low heat and move it around, do not concentrate on one place
for too long at a time. After drying one last groom will finish off the
whole process of grooming and bathing your dog.
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